10.10.2013-05.11.2013 + 22.11.2013-30.11.2013
Distance driven: 1484km
Days spent: 34
Distance driven/day: 43,6km
Diesel price: 1,21€/l
Money spent: 1628€
We applied online for the new pre-visa in Nouakchott and ended up having to wait for a whole week to get our confirmation e-mails after endless calls. We would recommend applying a while in advance, let’s say in Morocco or pick up the biometric visa at an embassy before to be able to cross at Diama. Make sure you state the desire for a multiple entry visa if you are planning on visiting The Gambia.
Costs are 52,50€ per person payable by credit card only for a 3 month multiple entry visa.
Update: Since May 2015 EU citizens do NOT need a visa anymore and can stay up to 3 months in Senegal.
Senegal was to be our first West African country and we thoroughly enjoyed our stay. People were friendly and chatty and contrary to other peoples experiences we had no trouble whatsoever with the police. St. Louis in the north made for a good introduction apart from its massive waste problem. Chilling out at 7Palava on the Atlantic after the border crossing at Rosso was brilliant. Dakar was not our favourite city but we were happy to catch up with Huw. The area around Palmarin and our pirogue trip into the delta was very enjoyable as well. Our firm favourite though was the Casamance region south of The Gambia with lush vegetation, extremely kind people and unspoilt beaches around Cap Skirring.
The consulate (N12 34.832 W016 16.056) located in Ziguinchor has moved recently and is not easy to find.
They issue visas while you wait and we were out of there with visas in hand after about 10 minutes.
We needed to fill out one form and hand in one passport photo.
Costs are 20.000CFA/person (30€) for a 1 month double entry visa.
The border crossing at Rosso was not the horror we were made to believe before. We did not pay anything without receipts and ended up with a decent, calm fixer called Abdul (00221776355549 – Senegal, 0022246135429 – Mauritania), who we can recommend according to our experience.
We were forced to acquire a passavant for 2500CFA (4€) even though we had a Carnet de Passage but they stamped the carnet anyway so we threw the passavant away.
The border crossing from The Gambia to the Casamance was very quick and easy with no trouble or fees involved. The carnet was stamped after we explained to the customs officer how to do it.
We got our ECOWAS insurance valid for 6 months and all countries down to the DRC in Dakar for 75€.
We tried to acquire visas for Ghana but the embassy employee was completely stonewalling us due to us not being residents of Senegal.
Recommended Campings (prices for 2 people and a 4×4):
7Palava, south of St. Louis – N15 54.644 W016 30.371
New German run camping spot in beautiful location at the Atlantic with spotless ablutions, brilliant home cooked food for more than fair prices and friendly owners
Restaurant Sunugal, Dakar – N14 45.141 W017 30.159
Restaurant with private beach and lagoon in Ngor in the north of the peninsula that allows camping in front of the place with 24h guard, European style toilets and free Wifi, very quiet and good base for Dakar
Djidjak, Palmarin – N14 01.448 W016 46.082
Beautiful lodge right at a deserted beach with camping under shady trees, proper ablutions, huge community room and free Wifi, also organizise pirogue trips into the Saloum delta
Chez Stef, Kafountine – N12 55.842 W016 44.817
Pretty campement run by a German artist living close to nature with a large vegetable garden, nice breakfast with homemade mango jam and very friendly owner, bicycle rental possible
5000CFA/night (7,62€), breakfast 1800CFA/person (2,74€)